Every evening, as the sun approaches the horizon, a breathtaking ritual unfolds atop the towering Jagannath Temple in Puri, Odisha. Two specially trained priests from the Chola family begin their daring ascent up a 214-foot spire without any ropes, safety harnesses, or modern equipment. Their mission is sacred and singular: to replace the temple’s sacred flag with a new one. This ancient ceremony, known as Dhwaja Parivartan or Chunara Seva, has been performed uninterrupted for over 800 years, making it one of the most extraordinary and spiritually significant rituals in Indian temple tradition.
The Daily Spectacle: Understanding Dhwaja Parivartan
Dhwaja Parivartan, meaning “flag change” in Sanskrit, is far more than a mere maintenance task. It is a divine ritual that embodies unwavering devotion, extraordinary courage, and a centuries-old commitment to honouring Lord Jagannath. The ceremony takes place every single day without exception, shifting its timing with the seasons. During the winter months, the ritual occurs at 5 PM, while in summer, it begins at 6 PM when the evening light still illuminates the temple’s magnificent architecture.
The flag being hoisted is called the Patitapavana Bana or Dhwaja, a triangular banner approximately 20 feet in length. This flag is affixed to the Nila Chakra, also known as the Sri Chakra, which crowns the temple’s Garba Mandira or Shikhara. The Nila Chakra itself is a marvel of ancient craftsmanship, made from Ashta-datu—an alloy of eight metals—and weighs nearly a ton. Carved with intricate designs including eight Nava-kunjaras (elephant motifs), this celestial wheel represents Lord Vishnu’s Sudarshan Chakra and symbolises divine protection and cosmic order.
One of the most mystifying aspects of this flag is its peculiar behaviour. Despite the laws of physics, the Patitapavana Bana always flutters in the opposite direction of the wind—a phenomenon that has puzzled scientists and inspired believers for centuries. Many attribute this to divine intervention and the protective grace of Lord Jagannath.
The Guardians of Tradition: The Chola Family
At the very heart of the Dhwaja Parivartan ritual lies the Chola family, custodians of an 800-year legacy that is unparalleled in devotional service. The responsibility for performing this daily climb has been exclusively entrusted to members of this ancient lineage, passed down through countless generations with remarkable dedication and discipline.
The connection of the Chola family to the Jagannath Temple can be traced back to the Eastern Ganga Dynasty, particularly to King Anantavarman Chodaganga, who rebuilt the present structure of the Jagannath Temple in the 11th-12th century. The very name “Chodaganga” reflects a fusion of Chola and Ganga heritage, symbolising the deep cultural and familial bonds between the southern Chola dynasty and the eastern Ganga rulers. This historical connection established the Chola family’s sacred role in the temple’s rituals and governance.
What makes the Chola family’s service truly remarkable is the rigorous training each member undergoes from childhood. These priests are not merely selected; they are groomed from a young age to develop the exceptional physical strength, mental fortitude, and spiritual devotion required for this extraordinary task. They learn the intricate details of the climb, the proper techniques for ascending the spire, and the sacred mantras to be chanted during the ceremony. This intensive preparation ensures that when each priest takes their place in the tradition, they are fully equipped not just physically, but spiritually as well.
The Sacred Climb: A Feat of Devotion and Bravery
The actual climb during Dhwaja Parivartan is an awe-inspiring spectacle that continues to astound visitors and devotees alike. At the appointed time, two trained priests emerge, carrying multiple flags tied securely around their waists. These are not casual climbers—they are warriors of faith embarking on a mission that has defined their family’s honour for generations.
The priests begin their ascent with remarkable speed and agility, their barefoot steps finding purchase on the temple’s stone surface. As they climb higher and higher, their voices resonate across Puri, chanting “Jai Jagannath” with unwavering conviction. This sacred mantra serves dual purposes: it amplifies their spiritual dedication and announces to the temple and devotees below that the ritual is underway. The climb itself is a dramatic vertical ascent of 214 feet—equivalent to a 45-story building—performed without any modern safety equipment or harnesses.
The entire process, from the moment the priests begin climbing to when they descend after changing the flag, typically takes between 20 to 30 minutes. During this time, their movements are swift, deliberate, and marked by an almost supernatural grace that has led many observers to attribute divine assistance to their efforts. When they reach the summit, they carefully remove the old flag from the Nila Chakra and securely fasten the new one, ensuring it is properly positioned to catch the divine winds that will make it flutter in its characteristic opposite direction.
The Divine Origin: Why the Flag Must Change
The spiritual significance of Dhwaja Parivartan extends far beyond its impressive physical spectacle. According to the beliefs and legends cherished by devotees, this tradition originated from divine instruction itself. The story goes that Lord Jagannath once appeared in devotees’ dreams, expressing his displeasure at seeing an old, tattered flag flying atop his temple. When temple priests inspected the flag the following morning, they discovered it was indeed frayed and deteriorated. From that divine revelation onward, it was decreed that a fresh, new flag would be hoisted every single day as an offering of respect, renewal, and spiritual devotion.
This daily renewal symbolises much more than simple maintenance. It represents the perpetual offering of fresh devotion, the continuous blessing of protection over the temple and its devotees, and the eternal vigilance of Lord Jagannath over his domain. Each new flag that unfurls atop the Nila Chakra is a prayer made manifest, a daily affirmation of faith that connects millions of believers to the divine.
The Consequence of Omission: An 18-Year Closure
Perhaps the most striking aspect of the Dhwaja Parivartan tradition is the legend surrounding its observance. According to deeply held temple beliefs and scriptures, if the flag-changing ceremony were ever missed even for a single day, the temple would be forced to remain closed for a full 18 years. This extraordinary consequence underscores the absolute spiritual importance of the ritual and the divine order it represents.
This belief has served as an unwavering motivation for the Chola family for eight centuries. Come illness, injury, monsoon rains, extreme heat, or any other earthly challenge, the ritual has never been interrupted. The priests have made an implicit covenant with their faith and with their ancestors: the flag will be changed every single day, without exception, for as long as the Jagannath Temple stands. This unbroken commitment reflects not just duty, but a profound spiritual understanding that their actions have cosmic implications extending far beyond the temple’s physical structure.
The Mystique of the Temple: The Flag’s Defying Physics
One of the most intriguing mysteries associated with the Patitapavana Bana is its peculiar behaviour with the wind. Observers and pilgrims have repeatedly noted that the flag consistently flutters in the opposite direction to the prevailing wind. Scientists have attempted to explain this phenomenon through aerodynamic principles and the peculiar shape of the flag or the structure of the temple spire. However, for believers, this is not a matter of physics but of divine will—tangible proof that Lord Jagannath’s hand guides and protects his banner.
Adding to the temple’s mystique is another fascinating belief: that the entire structure of the Jagannath Temple casts no shadow. This unusual characteristic, along with the flag’s paradoxical behaviour with the wind, contributes to the temple’s reputation as a place where the laws of nature seem to bend to accommodate the divine.
The Role of Timing and Seasons
The seasonal adjustment of the Dhwaja Parivartan timing reflects the temple’s deep understanding of natural rhythms and astronomical considerations. During winter, when daylight hours are shorter, the ceremony begins at 5 PM to ensure adequate visibility for the priests’ climb. In summer, when daylight persists longer, the ritual moves to 6 PM. This sensitivity to the changing seasons demonstrates how the ancient temple tradition harmonises human activity with the natural world.
A Living Testament to Faith
The Dhwaja Parivartan ritual stands as a living, breathing testament to the enduring power of faith and devotion in the human heart. Every evening, when the two priests begin their fearless ascent without modern safety equipment, they participate in something far greater than themselves—they uphold a tradition that has connected generations of believers to the divine. They honour the legacy of the Chola family, they fulfil an ancient divine covenant, and they demonstrate that true devotion knows no bounds.
For visitors to Puri, witnessing this ceremony is often a life-changing experience. The sight of two human beings, armed with nothing but faith and training, climbing to the heavens to offer a flag to their deity, represents the pinnacle of spiritual commitment. It is a daily reminder that extraordinary acts of courage and dedication spring not from external rewards, but from the inner fire of unwavering belief.
The Jagannath Temple’s Dhwaja Parivartan ceremony will continue, day after day, season after season, as long as the sacred temple stands. The Chola family will continue their climb, the flag will continue to flutter in mysterious opposition to the wind, and devotees will continue to find inspiration in this extraordinary ritual that bridges the earthly and the divine.
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Reference Links:
- https://news.abplive.com/news/india/puri-jagannath-temple-flag-changing-ritual-a-feat-parallel-to-kailash-mansarovar-yatra-1686453
- https://www.thedailyjagran.com/why-flag-of-jagannath-puri-temple-has-to-be-changed-daily/
- https://www.odishabytes.com/dhwaja-bandha-timing-at-puri-jagannath-temple-changed/
- https://en.lordjagannath.in/puri-its-land-legend-and-lore/
- https://www.devdutt.com/articles/culture/cholas-in-focus.html
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